When thinking of the worlds coffee heavyweights, countries like Brazil, Ethiopia, and Columbia come to mind. We rarely see the Philippines amongst those at the leading edge of the coffee industry.
It may seem unusual that neighbouring countries to the Philippines – Indonesia and Vietnam etc. – are regularly amongst the top coffee producers in the world; yet, the Philippines is rarely mentioned.
This was not always the case:
Coffee was first introduced into the country back in 1749, by a Franciscan friar. It quickly grew into a thriving industry. The Philippines continued to be a prominent coffee producer until the end of the nineteenth century, towards the end of the Spanish colonisation.
Around this time the countries crops were decimated by coffee rust disease. Trade began to taper off due to a lack of government support and a decline in the international coffee prices. This caused farmers to abandon their endeavours and move on to growing different crops.
Though, this only lasted until the middle of the twentieth century when the popularity of instant coffee took off.
Today, the Philippines coffee industry is continuing to blossom. The current high prices and an increase in local and international coffee chains have pushed farmers to refocus on producing coffee crops.
International chains such as Starbucks have spread across Manila as well as smaller local cafes which continue to gain a strong presence across the country. All in a bid to tap into the countries expanding coffee industry.
Tourism potential in coffee plantations
Many coffee experts have spoken out about the possibility for coffee farmers to welcome tourists to their estates. Ecotourism already draws a significant flow of international guests to the country. It’s up to farmers to take advantage of the industry by making their plantations more tourist friendly.
Catering plantations to the needs of tourists will provide alternative revenue sources to many farmers. This will address the issue of having a limited income, which many farmers are now facing.
The coffee industry employees approximately 200,000 Filipinos. Opening the plantations up to tourism will have a flow-on effect in providing many other employment opportunities in the local communities.
Coffee tourism also has the potential to strengthen local economies. As tourists enter a community, many other related businesses will see revenue growth.
Kapeng Tagalog: Arabica coffee in the Philippines
Arabica coffee is the most consumed coffee in the world. Though only 5% of the coffee produced in the Philippines is the high-grade Arabica coffee.
Although the coffee is known as Arabica, in the Philippines it is often referred to as Kapeng Tagalog.
Arabica is mostly grown in high altitude areas. So, you will find it in provinces such as Benguet, Sagada, Ifugao and Mt. Matutum. With the different locations comes a signature taste to the coffee.
For example, coffee from the infamous Cordillera region has an acidic, sweet taste. Whereas, the coffee from Mindanao has a bittersweet flavour with a floral aroma
Robusta: Back to basics
Most of the coffee grown in the Philippines is the Robusta variety. The crop is easy to maintain and provides a higher yield; it is subsequently a highly commercialised variety. Due to these positive factors, 85% of the coffee grown in the country is Robusta.
Much of this harvest is the sold on to Nestle who use it to make their iconic instant coffee varieties seen in supermarkets and Sari-Sari stores across the country.
Unlike Arabica, Robusta coffee thrives on lowlands. You can find plantations located across regions such as Bukidnon, Misamis Oriental, Sultan Kudarat, Bataan, Bohol, Cebu, Compostela Valley and Palawan amongst others.
Robusta – although seen as a low-grade coffee – has slowly begun to raise its profile to that of Arabica and other quality coffees. The Robusta is known for its sharp flavour and high caffeine content. It is often more bitter than Arabica due to its pyrazine content.
Kapeng Barako the full-bodied Liberica
The Liberica is much rarer than the other coffee varieties with only 3% of the Philippines coffee production being of the Liberica variety. The UN Food and Agriculture Organisation recognises the rarity of the species on the world stage. They have estimated that internationally, less than 2% of the commercially produced coffee is Liberica.
In the Philippines, you will often hear Liberica referred to as Kapeng Barako. The term “Barako” is used to refer to the masculine qualities of a male; it is used to emphasise the strong signature taste of the coffee.
The coffee originated in Liberia, West Africa. It was then brought to the Philippines with the original plantations being set up by the Spaniards in Lipa during the colonial era.
Lipa is still one of the countries prime locations when it comes to Liberica coffee. The high altitude coupled with the excellent climate and soil sets the coffee from Lipa apart from other Liberica varieties.
Due to quantities of Liberica coming from Batangas, most coffee in the province is referred to as Barako. The majority of the rare, exotic coffee is found in Lipa as well as other high altitude areas within the region.
The fruity flavours of Excelsa
Excelsa is often confused for Liberica or Robusta. Although Excelsa does have some distinct qualities which set it apart from the other coffee varieties.
It is often pointed out that Excelsa has a distinctly sweet, fruity flavour. Some also note that the coffees aroma is a lot more apparent than its taste. The characteristics of the coffee are often compared to foods like jackfruit.
Excelsa is a little more prominent than Liberica with 7% of the Philippines coffee production being that of Excelsa. It is often more favoured due to its drought-resistant qualities.
Like Liberica, Excelsa coffee can be found in Batangas and Quezon; plantations have also been set up in Sorsogon.
Cordilleras Civet Coffee
The Philippines Civet coffee or Kape Alamid is harvested in the fertile ground of the Siera Madre Mountains in the Cordillera region of Northern Luzon.
The name Kape Alamid hints at the distinct characteristics of this coffees production method which sets it apart from the rest.
“Alamid” refers to the Palm Civet (Paradoxurus Hermaphroditus philippinensis). A Civet is a small animal related to the mongoose. They are viewed as pests in the Philippines, often hunted for their meat.
The coffee production begins with the Alamids. The animals are attracted to quality berries. They will use smell to find the ripest, finest berries to pick.
They will then fill themselves up with these berries, but they will later excrete them as the Alamids are unable to digest these berries.
As the berries pass through the Alamid, the stomach acids and digestive enzymes affect the chemical structure of the coffee bean. It is this digestive process which gives civet coffee its distinct taste. The fermentation of the bean as it passes through the civet’s digestive system sets civet coffee apart from the rest.
If Mindanao and the southern Islands are part of the Philippines, then they deserve recognition that they were the first to introduce coffee to the Philippines when Muslim settlers came as early as the 12th century. They are the ones that also brought it to Java Indonesia! The Arabica is what is grown in Yemen and has been introduced to the rest of the world, including Philippines.
Muslim settlers in the south brought coffee beans from Yemen as early as the 12th century. Later the Dutch introduced it in the north in 1696. In 1730 Franciscan friar planted the first coffee tree in Lipa, Batangas, they brought seeds from Mexico. Later Coffee plantations became part of the foundation of Batangas’ economy and Lipa was later labeled as the coffee capital of the Philippines.